












This is, by all indications, a yearly ritual in my life, one that only serves to remind me that I don't have enough money. What exactly is "enough?" Well, I don't really know the answer to that except to say that I haven't got it - especially when I'm looking for new digs in the dead center of Seoul.
We spent Saturday tramping in and out of one hovel after another. One looked promising until I saw the kitchen: It was built in something of a crawl space turned vertical, which is to say that there was no more than about one foot between the cabinets and the wall. I'm not exaggerating when I say a person couldn't turn around in there without first stepping out and reentering.
Scratch that one.
Other apartments featured such amenities as the sink drain in the middle of the kitchen floor, allowing you trip over the hose every time you'd try to turn on the stove. One palace offered next door access to a smorgasbord of vice (to which I'm not, on principle, opposed, but I like to sleep at night and don't need to live next to it).
At one point, we walked past an elementary school where the kids were having a gathering of sorts, complete with tents set up in neat rows around the dirt yard.
"What are they doing?" I asked.
"That's a campout," replied my friend.
"No, that's homelessness," I countered. "Sleeping in a tent in the wilderness is a campout. Sleeping in a tent in the middle of a city - especially a tent city like that - is poverty."
"Well, anyway," she said. "I was jealous of them when I was young. It always looked fun."
"Whatever that is, it sure as hell isn't recreation." I was becoming snide after a day of being told I'm too poor and too picky, and when I get into such a mood my only goal becomes to piss in everyone else's party punch..
By the end of the day, however, I was convinced that I might soon be living in a tent on a schoolyard myself.
On the way home, we ran into a guy I know who sells cheap crap on the subways here. I asked him how business was going and he just said, "well, tomorrow's a new day," which could be good or bad, I guess.